This is a good solution for many reasons: health, Earth and saves money.

First, by using this kind of solution there will not be any woman allergic to synthetic ingredients, fragrances and plastics like in disposable because they are mainly produced in cotton. Therefore they are hypoallergenic. In addition, the use of chemical products in disposable paths can lead to the production of a very dangerous substance which is dioxin. The latter can cause health problems as reproductive, developmental, immunological and glandular effects.

Second, consider that each woman generates around 123 kg of menstrual waste. And each of them takes around 800 years to degrade. Therefore, solutions as such are the best way to avoid the use of useless waste.

Third, consider that the average a woman spends on disposable pads per year is around 22£, the washable solution is far from being expensive. They last more or less 75 washes and to get them the amount is around 40£ per four years.

Many brands have been converted to this more eco-friendly solution. One of them that I would like to talk about is “Ecofemme”. It is an Indian project made to empower women in difficulty. By buying their washing pads, you can support the holistic menstrual health education to girls and women from the Indian low-class, provide a living wage for rural women and of course choose an eco-friendly way to face out that specific period.

And last but not least, what product for a woman better done than the one made by women for women?

It is a very interesting and important project that in its simplicity can lead to the spread of culture and to the magnificent feeling of knowing that you are doing the right thing to help whatever surrounds us.

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It is a well-known Italian brand of pens born in 1919 in Turin (Italy) by Isaia Levi. The name recalls a rebirth after the war. In English, the term “aurora” means “dawn”, “sunrise”. Their first engagement was fountain pens.

It is a Made in Italy brand known for the high-quality standard of manufacturing.

During the 20s, they introduced a new material for pens. Instead of using ebonite, it is launched celluloid, a plastic material.

During the 40s, the Italian designer Marcello Nizzoli created the “88”, a pen so much loved still in production.

In the 50s, the “Duo Cart” is launched by the designer Albe Steiner. He also gave birth to the famous “Auretta”, considered a pen for students due to its low price.

During the 70s, Marco Zanuso designed the two models exposed at the MOMA of New York, the Hastil and the Thesis.
And many others like the Ipsilon, the Leonardo Da Vinci and the Talentum.

An interesting particular is the mechanism of their fountain pen, which is patented. It is the “hidden reserve”, meaning that even if the ink runs out, there is this “secret” ink placed inside that helps the person write more or less for at least two sheets of paper. In addition, they also use the “piston loading”, so filling up the pen from the nib. The latter could be made in different materials such as 14 or 18 carats gold and steel.

However, the brand is known at the international level, all around the world more than 50 countries. Even if its export is around 52% of the sales volume, Aurora is still an artisan manufacturing. This is the reason why pens are made mostly upon request.

Therefore, if you would like to have a piece of Italian history you should wait a bit to be made. Especially you are interested in the “Diamante” pen: it is the most expensive pen in the world, with De Beers certified diamonds (1.919 in total for 30 carats). The pen is made of gold and platinum and it is inspired by the light of the sun: from the dawn to the sunset. There is only one piece at the moment. The estimated price is around £1.10 million, more than a Ferrari.

However, the pandemic seems not to have altered too much the business: the company decreased by 3,7%. The fact is that Aurora concerns products of niche that are growing in requests. COVID-19 feels like have changed people’s mind: they look more at particular hobbies, products and requests. That could be the reason why brands like Aurora did not feel too much the pressure of pandemic. It is a particular world in which history and artisan manufacturing fund together. The care in producing a refined piece of art, choosing so many different materials: this is Aurora, synonymous with high-manufactory Made in Italy.

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Even though I still won’t consider this as an evening ensemble J Lo pulls it off and it is an Iconic piece of garment, to say the least.

By other means, the dress made headlines in 2020 again when Versace came up with the idea of reviving the dress and launching a whole collection around it. Talking about the colours and prints, I feel they are relevant to the market and the costumer of this generation but the main issue arises with the silhouettes, it felt the brand has tried to sell the idea of a scandalous dress and made the garments just with that point of view somehow they managed to make the slits riskier and over the top, which is a good thing but not with the show-stopping number. The other ensembles are nice but again all seem too much centred with a J lo dress.

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The show opened with a silver-haired woman, credited in the show notes as “Neda Brady, an architect”, wearing a black trouser suit. The trousers were too big, held up by a basic-looking black belt, and too long as if the wearer hadn’t got round to taking them up, so they bunched around her ankles. She wore her spectacles, but no makeup or any accessories beyond an office pass on a lanyard. A good look at her departing back view revealed that the jacket wasn’t merely oversized, but had a shoulder line exaggerated by internal boning.

Some of the clothes were shocking in their ordinariness. The palette might best be described as “commuter train”: dull black and grey studded with brash, Angela Merkel-brights. Men wore zippered nylon jackets with trousers as if heading home from a shift. The casting mixed high-fashion favourites from past and present with ordinary people, so that “Tobias Mehlmann, a mechanical engineer” was followed by “Bella Hadid, a model”.

There was nothing ordinary about the vast bell-shaped ballgowns in crushed velvet or pleated lurex, which gave the models the larger-than-life silhouette where they looked a little like football mascots in padded costume.

Gru-like silhouettes & inflatable puffer jackets dominated Balenciaga’s catwalk in Paris.

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MSCHF is a misspelling of ‘mischief’, more prominently ‘miscellaneous mischief’, and the name has appropriately hinted at what its business is all about, through a suggestive trademark. Mischief is primarily interested in touching and pushing the boundaries of ingenuity, poking, teasing and making fun of its gigantic commercial contemporaries, with apparently unprecedented, cynical, absurd and creative products.

However, it would not be befitting, if MSCHF is considered to be a sneaker company since they generally work independently.

MSCHF and Ways to Running the Brand

MSCHF, a startup consciously referring to themselves as a “group”, “art collective” or a “brand”, started their venture in 2016. Mr Gabriel Whaley is the Founder and CEO of the company, and he is primarily the innovator of all pranks and stunts. After resigning from Buzzfeed, with his online story-telling propensity and enviable ingenuity, he switched over to the virtual world, accessing commercial assistance from Casper. Mischievous products, which are launched by MSCHF, are formally called ‘drops’.

The company does not operate the business from their website or any social platforms; their Twitter and Instagram accounts have been kept private. They generally access the orders with a mysterious phone number. The group is not very transparent, nor it franchises or advertises on its behalf for maintaining sustainable growth.

However, they generally link their basic projects to social affairs, which may be an important way to soliciting one’s brand. For instance, they had ‘dropped’ shell restaurant for fundraising purposes, before the Presidential elections in November 2020.

So how do they work? Being located in Brooklyn, New York, MSCHF is divided into separate departments, such as planning, development, production, distribution and outreach, with about 13 specialised employees working for the group. Until late evenings, they work on setting while maintaining lines of codes and stretching their fun-making creations, in a tiny ‘conference room’. They launch their drops in every two weeks, which they capitalise on. However, they prioritise creativity over commercialization.

Drops and Intellectual Property

The first MSCHF drop was a 2008 six malware Windows laptop. This was launched in May 2019 and it immediately sold out for $1.34 million. After that, starting from the ‘Man-Eating Food’ YouTube channel to the latest drop #43, a controversial Lil Nas X Satan Shoes, the company stretched out its boundaries continuously very remarkably.

How do their creative works go? One of their new drops was #drop 39, which was a ‘Birkinstocks’ footwear. They mashed up two well-known brands – Hermes Birkin and Birkenstocks. They made a parody version upon the trademark of Hermes and used an ‘i’ instead of ‘e’ for their ‘Birkinstocks’ shoe. Yes, they perhaps have infringed intellectual property rights, whilst borrowing reputed trademarks and raw materials for their respective products.

For instance, ‘Birkinstocks’ footwear was made of torn Birkin bangs. However, MSCHF may be defended with the following jurisprudential norms:

(i) Since they randomly borrow and utilise raw materials into the projects, it would not be an infringement for artistic work, unless their creations substantially become identical with any product(s) in question for a well-known brand. Instead, every drop is substantially an original work in itself.

(ii) MSCHF may get the protection of the Doctrine of Exhaustion, the doctrine of the first sale. The doctrine depicts that, once a product has been sold, the owner of the particular good exhausts its control over reselling, lending or commercial uses of the product. Therefore, the right of exhaustion, if it is applicable for a nation or a region, or across the globe for a particular nation or region, may benefit MSCHF.

Recent Setback(s)?

For their drop #43, ‘Satan Shoes’, a £740 trainer ($1018), they collaborated with Lil Nas X, with the release of his song ‘Montero (‘Call me by your name’) on March 26 2021. MSCHF modified Nike Air Max 97s, featuring an inverted cross, a pentagram and a Bible verse “Luke 10:18” mark on the shoe. Most interestingly, the trainers contained 66cc of red ink and one drop of human blood.

Nike claimed that its trademark was infringed, and it lodged a suit against MSCHF before the Federal Court, New York, for preventing the company from selling the trainers. MSCHF lawyers defended that the company had created 666 pairs, which were “not typical sneakers, but rather individually-numbered works of art .”

The court adjudicated that, there had already been evidence of “dilution” and “confusion” between the goods of Nike and MSCHF, causing the sports giant to restrict their trade, and Nike had not authorised them to commercialise the product. Hence, Nike won the suit.

“One can love or hate them for their shamelessness, but no….you can’t ignore them”

Dr Sunanda Bharti, Associate Professor, University of Delhi

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